Heat Hardening Argentium Sterling

Typically jewelers and other metalsmiths harden metal via working it. Hammering, twisting, or bending have the effect of compressing the atoms within grains, relocating defects to grain boundaries, and generally hardening the metal.



It's also possible to use heat to harden metals, in a process called precipitation hardening, whereby the composition of tiny areas within the metal shift as the different components of an alloy redistribute due to mobility of the atoms. The procedure for heat hardening conventional silver is well known, but leads to a relatively small amount of hardening and a correspondingly deep firescale that is hard to remove. However, using heat hardening for Argentium results in a significant hardening, up to twice that of unhardened sterling, with NO firescale, while also enhancing the tarnish resistance of the Argentium surface.

Ronda Coryell from Jewelry Studies International shared this video of the hardening process using a household oven at lower temperature for a longer time. I use my handy metal clay kiln with a schedule of preheated 570ºF kiln for two hours.

Find further information about heat hardening Argentium and the User Guide for Original Argentium on the Argentium Guild website.

Fusing Silver Clay to Argentium Silver

I'm a little behind on plugging my recent tutorial that appears in the latest issue of Metal Clay Artist Magazine. The cover of the magazine calls it "One of our best tutorials," which certainly makes a writer proud.

The article discusses the desirable properties of Argentium silver: easy firing, lack of firescale, tarnish resistance, and heat hardening. But beyond that, I show how to easily fuse Argentium to itself and to metal clay components.

If you've ever fused fine silver, you know there's a bit of finesse involved. Argentium is much, much easier to work with. Combined with metal clay, it's a cost effective way to extend your expensive and precious clay and to creep slowly into the world of conventional fabrication by learning skills for handling wire and sheet.

Fretz Bezel Forming Kit

The major tool purchase that I made at SNAG ties in nicely with my stone purchase. I ordered the new kit from Rio Grande that includes all the bezel forming tools produced by Bill Fretz.

After watching Bill demo for me how to form a bezel perfectly to fit an unusually shaped stone, I knew I would save time and money with this investment. The kit includes three hammers: planishing, narrow raising and double-ended with nylon inserts. Three different sets of forming stakes cover every possible bezel shape need, and a stake holder attaches to a block or bench to hold each securely. With a stand for the stakes and a video for how to use them, these goodies should have me producing beautiful bezels in no time.

New Gemstones and Pearls

One of my favorite parts of any conference, and SNAG (Society of North American Goldsmiths) was no exception, is the vendor area. I found some great new sources for gemstones and pearls to accent my upcoming work.

azurite geode pair

First off, Gangi Gems sucked me in with tables filled with wondrous colors and items I'd never seen before, such as this azurite geode pair. I don't have any idea yet how I will mount these, prongs probably, but I visualize them dangling in earrings.

larimar pears, dendritic agate triangle, cherry creek jasper oval pair

These pear-shaped larimar cabs are destined for focal pieces in necklaces or brooches. The dendritic agate looks perfect to pair with oxidized and bright silver. I love the many colors of cherry creek jasper, so this matched cab pair will also get an original earring design.

pearls

Next, the perfectly named King's Ransom enticed me with pearls in every color and shape. Not the common cheap pearls, but high quality (expensive!) pearls, such as matched half-drilled ivory teardrops and the black rounds. These champagne silver pearl beads are destined to be earring drops on my oxidized silver Moonflower earrings.

moonstone and aquamarines

Atlas Gemstones was a busy booth, with boxes full of gems in labeled plastic bags to peruse, as well as amazing carved stones, beads, cabochons and faceted stones of every size and color. I think I looked at every bag in those boxes, but the stones that called me back were aquamarines and a really nice oval moonstone. There were some amazing labaradorites that may haunt me.

faceted pear-shaped citrine

Finally, in the last minutes of the show, an elongated pear faceted citrine with color changing along its length called my name from the Jewellery Jamboree Gems booth. I'm thinking some 18k gold accents will look lovely with it on blackened silver.

SNAG Pin Collection

Time is running out, so I think the SNAG pin collection ends here.

SNAG pins 2013

SNAG pins 2013 - details

The Value of Working Fast in a Series

After the prototype proved plausible, I decided to attempt to make at least 20 pins for the swap. I did modify my process a bit because of fit issues with the stones and the tubing, but overall it's still a quick and dirty approach. So I hope anybody who really trades with me doesn't judge me too harshly!

Playing with color has been my favorite part of the project, making me really want to rethink how to introduce color more frequently into my regular jewelry. I've also enjoyed the return to my fiber roots and including the occasional piece of glass. I need to devote thought to how to combine media more effectively.

Working in a series is so invigorating. The basic process is easily set down:

1. cut tubing lengths
2. set the stones
3. reduce the tubing with the rolling mill and then shape
4. cover with fabric and thread scraps
5. add a feather and any other embellishments
6. add the fibula

But within that process, there are lots of places for variation. I work the first three steps with sets of 5-6 pins, then I work the next two steps individually. Finally, I will do the fibulas all at the end.

I find that as I'm working on one pin, I have an idea for another. Since I  know there are more to come, I feel no anguish over what to do with the current variation. I just make a quick decision and move on. The process moves faster because I'm not over thinking.

Inevitably, the process itself starts to feel a bit limiting. I begin to crave a break out into a new direction.

SNAG Pin Swap

This year I will venture into a new world - the annual SNAG (Society of North American Goldsmiths) conference held in Toronto next week. I'm looking forward to an exciting education as the program unfolds with presentations and demonstrations. The offerings range from new to old: digital jewelry photography and CAD to historical context of jewelry and tools, sustainable materials to roller printing, sawing and riveting.

One of the most highly touted events is the annual pin swap which occurs on the first night of the conference as a way to meet old and new friends. I've experienced similar events at other conferences, such as bead exchanges at the Gathering or charm swaps at a PMC conference, but constructing a fully wearable (although minimalist) piece of jewelry certainly takes the idea to a new level. I really didn't have any inspiration that would guide me to produce "20, 40, 60+ playful, clever, and inexpensive interpretations of the diamond."  

Then Bob Ebendorf's workshop gave me an idea. I decided that maybe I would take his suggestion for turning my fiber wrapped wire/tubing into a simple brooch. But how to incorporate the diamond theme? Should I go for shape? Should I glue on CZs? Then I remembered a coil of 1/4" copper refrigeration tubing stashed in my studio, a box of 50 5mm CZs in a drawer, a technique demoed by Ronda Coryell to quick set stones with a flex shaft, and a new rolling mill begging for work.

I quickly cut a short length of tubing, cut the seat for the stone and set it in about a minute, then used the mill to step reduce the tubing size. Finally I wrapped with some of my quilting scraps, stitching on a feather and a steel fibula. Now, can I set up an assembly line to make a collection of these in some reasonable time? The part I really enjoy about this idea is the possibility to make each one totally different. Wish me luck.